Baylie Erickson
Fashion & Culture
Week: 1
Topic: Intro & Basic Research
Treatments and mood boards
Treatments = Collection of mood boards essentially
Exploring and conveying ideas before they are portrayed
Alexander McQueen
Mastering presentation
Spring/ Summer of 1999
Designer Perspective:
-Structurally very decided and sound
-Certain aesthetic
-Body contouring
-More bodily focused than facially
-Shapes and structures
-Choice of the skin that is shown is crucial in giving off a vibe that he wants
-Music choice affects vibe too
-Choices of a structured material mixing with a looser flowing material creating contrast
-Delicate while taking a look towards the future using props and shapes/contours
-Creatively excels in showing new ideas such as spraying a dress with paint at a live runway show using robots
Katy England- Creative Director
Fittings and Adjustments- Atelier (not counting outsourcing)
Music- DJ
Venue- producer (ties everything together)
Casting- Casting Director
Lighting- Lighting Design
Choreography
Hair -Guido Palau
Makeup
Manicurist
Line up- Creative Director
Attendees- Market Editors, “Celebrities”, Buyers (Sample → Back to showroom → Private showings for client base/ buyers → Production- needs to be 6 months ahead)
Seating Chart- PR, Marketing, Publicist
Photographers-
Set Design
1900-1919 Paris
Mainstream: the ideas, attitudes, or activities that are regarded as normal or conventional; the dominant trend in opinion, fashion, or the arts
Popular Culture: culture based on the tastes of ordinary people rather than an educated elite
Culture: the arts and other manifestations of human intellectual achievement regarded collectively
Subculture: a cultural group within a larger culture, often having beliefs or interests at variance with those of the larger culture.
Bohemian: adj. Having informal or unconventional social habits
Swan Bill Corset: make you stand in an ‘S’ curve, intention to adjust posture, accentuate posture
Belle Epoque: 1871-1914 (with WW1) First time in hundreds of years that people weren’t at war, more self control over your life, began free thinking
Socially beautiful era, but also sparked beautiful art
Artists:
-Buyers
-Promotion
-Supplies
-Intellectual Contemporaries
-Movement
Art Noveau-
-Nature elements
-warm colors
-Curves lines
-Very Detailed
-Seen in everything from jewelry to architecture
Ballet Russe
Serghei Diaghiler
Callot Soeurs
Paul Poiret
hobble skirt- hits at ankles
First woman to ride in a plane with Wright brothers- rope around skirt to keep the wind from blowing it up, was in newspaper
Ballet People- Bohemian, lived within bohemian culture
1001 nights, 1002 nights
Leon Bakst
Atget: everyday life photography
Theaters:
Folies Bergere
Moulin Rouge
Henri Toulouse Lautrec
May 2007 Vogue: Paul Poiret Inspired
Christian Lacroix
1920s Jazz Age
WW1: 1914-1918
-Women were finally allowed to drive and were needed for aid in the war
- 1918 Millions had died
-Good spirits, happy to be alive
-1920 women’s rights
-More women than men survive, women feel valued
-Men begin to want their lives and jobs back, women forced back in their homes, 3 steps forward 2 steps back
-Not much regulation on food and drugs, Temperance Movement
-Began Prohibition
-Wilson voted against, but gov. passed the law
-Moonshine & Bootleggers
-1920s; Jazz; new dances, radio, record players speakeasies
-Flappers: Flapping Vaginas, easy women, women feeling liberated, smoked cigarettes, wanted to do as many men as possible
-Moved away from Corsets into Bandeau Bras to fit a more androgynous shape
-Hemlines became very provocative and short and hosiery became popular
Josephine Baker:
-Performer, started at 15 and became very passionate
-Very involved in civil rights movement
-Dixie Steppers
-Was a silly, sometimes unfocused, but charismatic woman
- ‘Legs have no bones’
-As harlem renaissance was taking off so was Josephine
-All black review show in Paris at 19, sailed to Europe 1925
-Turned Paris on its head
-Considered exotic flowers, not prejudiced
-In France, no Jim Crow laws… Embraced all things African (Colonizing Africa at the time)
-French interest in African Art
-Appeared in only a pink feather boa and no clothes, felt beautiful
-Took off, people thought it was crazy
-Contrast to ballet, she disrupted the perfect white hierarchical body type
-Artistic Modernism Movement
-Impacted past just the theater → Picasso, Hemingway, etc.
-French Society women wanted the Josephine Baker look… hair, clothes, etc.
The Lost Generation
F. Scott Fitzgerald
Zelda Fitzgerald
Ernest Hemingway
Gertrude Stein
1808- Atlantic Slave Trade
1861-1865- Civil War
Jan 1 1863-Emancipation Proclamation
April 14 1865- Lincoln Assassination
1890-1965- Jim Crow Law Passes
1915-1970- The Great Migration
1920-1930s- Harlem Renaissance
Art Deco- decorative art, design, and architecture...modernist reaction...geometrical shapes
1930s
Summary Points:
Herbert Hoover
Money circulation so low
Depression/ market crash
1929-1932 income dropped 40%
1954 depression ends
Womens:
Draping and Bias cut became a big factor in fashion development.
Using gravity to an advantage rather than a disadvantage
Defined victorian era clothing found its way back
Women’s bodies defined
Women’s bodies also were used to sell clothes
Lettie Lynton dress
Film changed clothing and clothing became more graphic..
30’s are the basis and foundation for modern dress
Proportions were perfect
Mens:
Everyone wore suits
Duke of Wales tailor Frederick Sholty
Wanted to create a more comfortable suit
Inspiration from guards uniforms
London look, drape cut, drapery cut, English drape style
V shape with broad shoulders with a taper to a V
Big sleeves for a lot of movement
Became the modern coat and is still used today
Cut on the bias so there was “give”
Would fit even better over time from body heat
Went to Italy
1940s
December 8, 1941 War begins
Womens clothing becomes more androgynous
-big shoulders, less accentuated hips
Clothing designed to save money and fabric was rationed
August 15, 1945 WW2 ends and men need their jobs back
Order restored (men came back from the war)
Silhouettes changes back
Feminine shapes and women going back to their roles visually as well as Physically
(Dior)
1950’s
Beginning of Television
16 million men return to America
Women and men return to original priorities and jobs
Family dinners:
Etiquette
Gender Roles
Sexism
Expectation
Supression
Formality
Irving Penn-
1950’s photographer
Lisa Fonssagrives: one of the first famous models, famous for being married to Penn
Hour glass shape for women from corsets and girdles
“Fashion slim silhouette” : Marilyn Monroe, Lana Turner, Bettie Page
Underwire and separating breasts
Sex in any other way than reproduction was illegal
No education expectations- trade school (special trades) , don’t need college, usually end school after high school
No denim: too casual
James Dean era
Preppies
Grease
Bad boys and tight fitting clothes for girls
skinny jeans
Elvis
1960’s:
-Space Age // Modernists
-Swinging 60’s
-Drug Experiments
-Sexual Freedom
-Class Changes
Washington Square Park
Bob Dylan - Times are a changin
Vietnam War: Horrible attacks, drugs (LSD//Heroin) PTSD etc.
Taxi Driver
Beetles
Anti War songs
freedom like the 1920’s
School 50’s ettiquette hair had to be above ears
Anti manufacturer- thrift stores, growing food… hippies etc
Mini Skirts and more skin
youth fashion plays more of a role
buyer defined the trends
Shift dress// gogo boots
August 1969 15th-18th Woodstock
Black Panthers
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